Below Union Street, in a basement that used to host events, Jun Jang cooks whatever the season gives him and chalks the menu up each afternoon. The room needed to share his values: honest, warm and in no hurry.

So the kitchen set the brief. Limewash, terracotta tiles, oak trestle tables and spindle-back chairs keep the palette spare and tactile. Parchment wall lights, opal pendants and candles pool warmth across each table while a record player in the window sets the tempo.

Long shared tables and a deep window seat make it just as easy to linger over supper for two as over a full Saturday table.

The city above feels a long way off. That is the point.